Materials Needed

• White or light-colored 100% cotton garment (pre-washed)
• Fiber reactive dye (Procion MX recommended)
• Soda ash (sodium carbonate)
• Squeeze bottles for each color
• Rubber bands or sinew
• Plastic table cover or garbage bags
• Rubber gloves
• Dust mask
• Wire rack or plastic grate
• Plastic wrap

Preparation

1. 1

   Wash your garment without fabric softener to remove any sizing or oils.

2. 2

   Dissolve 1 cup of soda ash in 1 gallon of warm water to create a fixative solution.

3. 3

   Soak your garment in the soda ash solution for 15-20 minutes.

4. 4

   Gently wring out excess water - the fabric should be damp but not dripping.

5. 5

   Prepare your work surface by covering it with plastic.

6. 6

   Mix your dyes according to package instructions (typically 2-4 tablespoons dye powder per 8oz water).

Folding & Tying

1. 1

   Lay your damp garment flat on your work surface.

2. 2

   Pinch the fabric at the point where you want the center of your spiral (usually center chest).

3. 3

   While holding that point, use your other hand to twist the fabric in one direction.

4. 4

   Continue twisting, using your fingers to keep the fabric flat and spiral-shaped.

5. 5

   The garment should form a flat disc shape, like a cinnamon roll.

6. 6

   Secure the spiral with 3-4 rubber bands crossing through the center, creating pie-slice sections.

Applying the Dye

1. 1

   Place your spiral on a wire rack over a tray to catch drips.

2. 2

   Plan your color placement - each wedge section between rubber bands will be one color.

3. 3

   Starting with your lightest color, apply dye to one wedge section, saturating the fabric.

4. 4

   Flip the spiral and apply the same color to the matching section on the back.

5. 5

   Continue with each color, working around the spiral.

6. 6

   Make sure dye penetrates all layers - use the bottle tip to push dye into folds.

7. 7

   For cleaner color separation, leave small undyed gaps between colors.

Rinsing & Finishing

1. 1

   Wrap the dyed spiral in plastic wrap to keep it moist.

2. 2

   Let it cure for at least 24 hours at room temperature (ideally 70°F or warmer).

3. 3

   After curing, rinse under cold water until water runs mostly clear.

4. 4

   Remove rubber bands and continue rinsing, gradually increasing water temperature.

5. 5

   Wash alone in hot water with a small amount of textile detergent.

6. 6

   Dry in dryer or air dry.